Niacinamide has become ubiquitous in Indian skincare routines. But the 10% concentration trend — popularised by affordable brands — may be causing more harm than benefit for a significant subset of users.
Above pH 6.0 and at concentrations exceeding 5%, niacinamide begins converting to nicotinic acid — a compound that triggers prostaglandin-mediated vasodilation. In practice: flushing, stinging, and compromised barrier function. Most budget formulations do not control pH adequately.
The most robust trials supporting niacinamide for sebum control, pore reduction, and hyperpigmentation used concentrations between 4–5%, not 10%. The marginal benefit of doubling concentration does not outweigh the risk of barrier disruption in reactive skin.
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